What Underwater Camera Should I Use in 2026?

It's the question I get most often. And the answer most websites give you is useless: they present a list of products with affiliate links, without telling you which one actually suits you.

I'm going to give you my honest answer. The one I give my students before they spend money.

The short version: the best camera for scuba diving is the one you know how to use. Not the most expensive. Not the most megapixels. The one you can operate underwater, in physically demanding conditions, with sometimes reduced visibility and limited time.

The long version, with numbers and real recommendations, is what follows.

Before we talk gear, I want to tell you something I wish I'd heard when I started.

I began with a GoPro that I damaged. Then I bought a compact in a housing. Then a DSLR in a housing. At each stage, I thought the problem was the equipment. My photos were blurry, blue, lifeless, without depth. I changed gear.

The problem was me. My unstable buoyancy making the image shake. My frontal approach scaring fish away before I had time to frame. My white balance on auto making every photo inconsistent.

When I understood that and fixed those fundamentals, my photos with the same basic GoPro were better than the ones I'd taken with the 2,000-euro DSLR.

This isn't an argument for not having good gear. It's an argument for not starting with the gear.

That said, the differences between camera categories are real. Here's how to evaluate them.

Category 1: Smartphone in housing (150-500 euros for the housing)

For: beginners who want to start at low cost, divers who mainly produce for social media, and those who want a versatile photo/video tool without changing gear.

What you get: decent to good image quality for the web and social media, significant flexibility (the same phone does surface and underwater photography), and the ability to edit directly on the device after the dive.

The real limits: sometimes slow autofocus on fast-moving subjects, smaller sensor than dedicated cameras (more noise in low light), limited control on some housings (depending on the brand chosen).

My current setup: iPhone in a DiveVolk SeaTouch 4 Max housing. I replaced all my old dedicated equipment with this setup for my daily professional use.

What they don't tell you: the quality of an iPhone 15 Pro or 16 Pro far exceeds that of many dedicated compacts from previous generations. The main sensor, ProRAW management and video stabilisation are at the level of what 2,000-euro setups produced ten years ago.

Recommended devices: iPhone 15 Pro / 16 Pro, Samsung Galaxy S24/S25 Ultra, Google Pixel 9 Pro.

Category 2: Action camera (200-600 euros all-in)

For: video-oriented divers (dynamic diving, freediving, action reef encounters), people who want a compact, lightweight, shock-resistant setup that's easy to travel with.

What you get: a natively waterproof camera (GoPro is waterproof to 10 metres without housing, up to 60 metres with housing), a fixed wide angle suited to broad marine landscapes, and smooth stabilised video.

The real limits: fixed wide angle means no zoom, which requires getting very close to the subject. Autofocus designed for video, sometimes less precise for small macro subjects. Image less workable than RAW from a dedicated compact for large prints.

Reference settings (GoPro): 4K 60fps, white balance 5000K or Native, colour Flat, bitrate High, ISO max 1600, EV -0.5. These parameters are the AquaExposure training standard and have been tested over hundreds of dives.

Recommended devices: GoPro Hero 13 Black (with Max Lens Dome for optical quality), Insta360 Ace Pro 2 (excellent for divers who also want optional 360-degree view).

Category 3: Dedicated compact in housing (700-1500 euros all-in)

For: intermediate divers seeking real qualitative progression, particularly in macro or wide angle with better rendering than an action camera, without committing to an expert setup.

What you get: a larger sensor (better low-light noise management), the ability to use additional optics (macro, wide angle), native RAW mode for greater editing latitude, and generally better autofocus performance on static subjects.

The real limits: bulkier setup than an action camera or smartphone. The housing is model-specific (a tied investment). Greater travel weight.

The undisputed reference: Olympus (now OM System) TG-7 with PT-059 housing. The Olympus TG-7 is waterproof to 15 metres without housing, descends to 45 metres with the PT-059, and its macro modes are among the best available without moving to dedicated optics. It's the camera thousands of dive photographers have been using for years with excellent results.

Other options: Sony RX100 VII in Ikelite or Nauticam housing (1,200-1,800 euros for the housing alone, superior image quality to the TG-7, exceptional autofocus, but total investment of 2,000+ euros).

Category 4: Mirrorless or DSLR in housing (2000-6000 euros)

For: experienced photographers who already master underwater shooting techniques, who work for press, science or publishing, and who need maximum image quality.

What you get: full-frame or APS-C sensors at very high resolution, compatibility with a full range of lenses (wide angle, macro, telephoto depending on the port), and total creative flexibility.

The real limits: very significant investment (the housing alone can cost as much as the camera). Rigorous maintenance (O-rings, mechanical button servicing). Complex transport and logistics when travelling. And above all: the image produced won't be better than a compact's if the technique isn't up to par.

Expert reference setup: Sony A7C II or Sony A7R V + Nauticam housing (corresponding model) + 8-inch dome port for wide angle.

The Blackmagic action camera (Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera in dedicated housing) is also an option for underwater cinematographers working in RAW video.

This table doesn't say "most expensive is best". It says each category matches a profile, and moving up without mastering the previous category is a wasted investment.

You're starting out and want to see if underwater photography is for you: begin with what you have. If you already own a recent iPhone, add a DiveVolk housing. If you already have a GoPro, add a dome. Don't buy anything new before you've done 20 dives with the gear you already own.

You dive regularly and want to improve your photography: the Olympus TG-7 compact with its housing is the reference. Solid, adapted, with exceptional macro modes and an accessible learning curve.

You want to produce quality video for YouTube or social media: the action camera (GoPro Hero 13 or Insta360 Ace Pro 2) remains the best quality/ease/portability ratio for social-oriented underwater video.

You already master underwater shooting and want to level up: only then consider a mirrorless in housing. And check first that your images with your current compact are limited by the sensor and not by your technique.

The honest answer: it depends on their use.

Marine biologists and scientific teams mainly use GoPros and Olympus compacts. Rugged, interchangeable, easy to repair in the field.

Underwater wildlife photographers working for the press (National Geographic, BBC) use mirrorless Sony or Nikon in Nauticam housings, with complete setups including arms, torches and specialised optical ports. Complete setup budget: 10,000 euros and above.

Professional underwater videographers often work with Blackmagic or Sony cameras in dedicated housings, sometimes with external stabilisation systems.

The majority of diving instructors who produce content for their courses and social media use smartphones or action cameras. That's my case since I made this choice consciously: flexibility and efficiency take priority over maximum quality.

After several years of observing the most common purchasing mistakes:

Underwater video lights and flash units: bought because "the pros have them". Used 2 or 3 times, then sold. Artificial underwater lighting is a very advanced skill that assumes you've already mastered the entire natural light technique. And at AquaExposure, natural light work is the reference method: it respects animal behaviour, doesn't stress marine wildlife, and produces more natural-looking images.

Compacts in housing bought without checking optical compatibility: the camera and housing are fine, but the optical port isn't suited to the camera's internal lens. Result: vignetting (black corners on the image) or optical quality loss.

Second-hand housings without O-ring traceability: an aged or damaged O-ring isn't always visible to the naked eye. Buying a used housing is acceptable if you can verify or replace the O-ring and if the manufacturer still offers replacement O-rings.

What is the best underwater camera for a beginner diver?

For a beginner, a smartphone in a rigid housing is the smartest entry point. You're using a tool you already know on the surface, the budget is contained (300-500 euros for the housing if you already have the phone), and image quality is more than sufficient to learn and produce web content. The Olympus TG-7 is the alternative if you want a dedicated camera from the start, with excellent macro capabilities.

Can I use my phone as an underwater camera?

Yes, with a rigid housing adapted to your phone model. Current smartphones (iPhone 15/16 Pro, Samsung Galaxy S24/S25 Ultra, Pixel 9 Pro) produce very good quality images and video underwater with the right settings. The essentials: a rigid housing (never a soft pouch for diving), setting white balance to 5000K, and filming in a flat profile.

Are 50 megapixels actually useful for underwater photography?

No, in the vast majority of cases. Megapixel resolution isn't the limiting factor in underwater photography. What limits your image quality is low-light noise management (physical sensor size), autofocus speed on moving subjects, and the optical quality of the port or lens. A 20-megapixel sensor with a large photosensitive area will produce better images at depth than a 50-megapixel sensor with a tiny chip.

GoPro or iPhone for scuba diving?

Both work well, for slightly different uses. The GoPro is simpler to use (designed for it, waterproof without housing to 10 metres), ideal for action video and dynamic sequences. The iPhone with a DiveVolk housing offers finer control over photo settings, RAW access, and the flexibility of the editing app ecosystem. If you mainly produce video for social media: GoPro Hero 13. If you want to progress in photography and have more control: iPhone with DiveVolk.

Not sure which setup matches your level and goals? Module 2 of the AquaExposure training covers gear selection with a 5-step method. It's accessible for free on the site, no sign-up required.

• Waterproof housing: how to choose without making a mistake - Once you've chosen the camera, the complete guide to selecting the right housing.
• Smartphone underwater: good or bad idea? - My full experience with the iPhone in a DiveVolk housing as my main gear.
• Getting started in underwater photography - Gear is a starting point. Fundamentals make the difference.
• Underwater photography settings - Whatever camera you choose, these settings are the essential foundation.
• Dive travel: preparing your gear - Taking your setup on a plane without damage or customs surprises.
• Access the full AquaExposure training
• Underwater photography training in Belgium
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